Tech Talk: Whats in a bolt?

by James Wonder

 

I figured I would start some conversations and talks on various subjects and the first one (and most likely the most important) would be bolts.

Bolt grades:

As with everything else in life, bolts have grades with various hardnesses. Following is a list of the hardnesses of the bolts and their grades.

Grade 2 bolt: No head markings, and has no equivalent metric rating, stay away from them!
Grade 5/Metric 8.8: US has three lines on the head and metric has 8.8 on the head. The US to metric are not exactly rated, but they are very close. Most, if not all of our bolts will be of this grade. This is the most common grade, and when treated right these will virtually never fail.
Grade 8/Metric 10.9: US has 6 lines on the head and metric has 10.9 on the head. You can opt to use these in place of the 8.8 bolts, but the cost will be higher and the benefits are questionable based on bolt flex vs. brittleness.


Note: There are better bolts, and aircraft quality bolts, but those do not concern us in karting.

When to use which grade:

Most of the bolts on karts are 8.8 bolts, but bolts for the front uprights are definitely 10.9 or better. Most of these come from the manufacturer, but I know they are very good quality bolts.

So, why use 10.9 or 8.8? 8.8 bolts are very common and allow for a good amount of flex when installed properly. Think about the wings of an airplane when you look out the window. They are constantly flexing, if they are made too stiff they break. Bolts are the same, and you actually want some flex in them to get the best life and most strength without breaking.

In current F1 racing, as well as modern aircraft, most of the bolts are very small 10/32 bolts. Those are much smaller than the ones that hold your bodywork on! They use many of these smaller bolts to lessen weight, and to allow for flex points in the material between the bolts. Believe it or not, it is MUCH stronger using three (3) 10/32 bolts in the right pattern than it is using a single 5/16 bolt which has a much higher tensile rating.

 

 

 

 


I use 10.9 bolts in my bearing carriers because the bolts are in single shear and you require a stronger bolt in that application. I will get into single shear vs. double shear in a later post, but these bolts do take a great deal of stress in our application. There is an argument that you want those bolts on the rear carriers to flex under extreme (accident, off-road, etc) conditions and that they should be 8.8 instead of 10.9. Most everyone runs 8.8 and they are fine, but I still opt for 10.9.

Fine thread vs. Course thread:

Most automotive stores now stock almost only course thread bolts, and even hardware stores do at this point. For our application they should not be used. You use a course thread bolt when you are threading the bolt into a soft material such as aluminum or wood. The larger pitch of the thread holds the softer material better. A fine thread bolt in wood would pull out very easily, the same is for aluminum. Most steel threads are still fine thread. So, stay away form course thread bolts unless you need to use them to thread into an aluminum part.

Conclusion:

Hopefully now when you go to the hardware store you will be able to read the head markings on these bolts and know which bolts to buy and for which application.